Use 1cm (5/8”) seam allowances throughout.
Enlarge Template C to actual size on some dressmakers’ paper, transferring all markings. Cut out.
Prepare Main Fabric - Open out the fabric and lay out flat with wrong side face up. Trim one raw edge so that it is straight and even.
Using a ruler draw then cut out Template A from stiff card to the dimensions shown, adding the notch halfway along top edge, then label the points A, B and C as shown.
Diagram 1 - Starting at left side edge, lay Template A with the lower long side against the raw edge of the fabric and the short side against the left selvage. Place a pin on raw edge to mark point B and a pin in the notch at the top edge to mark point C, taking up very little fabric with the pin. Move Template A to the right so that point A is now against the pin that was previously point B and mark the new positions of B and C. Continue to the end of the row.
Now move Template A up a row so that points A and B match up with the top row of pins, starting from the left hand side. Mark point C with a new pin (or water-soluble marker, if preferred). Move Template A to the right again so that points A and B match the next 2 pins in top row and mark the new point C with another pin.
Continue thus until you have 4 rows of markers in total (including those along lower edge). Now remove the first row of pins. The remaining 3 rows will form the Wrap.
To gather the fabric
Trace Template B onto the remaining card then cut out. Punch a hole at the centre with Vario Pliers or a leather punch.
Place template over each pin one at a time and using either a water soluble marker or a chalk pencil, mark the corner points A-H with a dot on the fabric.
Diagram 2 – Keep wrong side of fabric face up. Using Diagram B as a guide and using Sylko double, fasten thread securely at point A, insert needle back into fabric at A and bring out at B, insert at C and bring back out at D. Continue in and out of each consecutive dot as shown in diagram, ending by inserting needle in fabric at A and bringing out again at B again. Draw the doubled thread up carefully and fasten off securely and firmly.
Work all of the remaining gathers to match.
Images 1 and 2 show wrong side and right side of fabric when all gathers are completed.
Lay fabric out flat again without stretching, taking care to keep gathered points in a neat line.
Lining
Enlarge Template C to correct size. Cut out 2 from Dressmakers’ Paper and join at centre back. Place Template C on Lining Fabric, matching grain of fabric with grain line on Template. Pin securely in position then cut out once.
Place Template C on fabric, matching grain of fabric with grain line on Template. Pin securely in position then tack carefully all round outer edge of Template C to hold any pleats and tucks in position once cut out. Cut out just outside tacking line.
Wadding
Place Template C on wadding. Pin securely in position then cut out once.
Baste wadding to wrong side of Lining (remove stitching on completion).
Ties
Stabilise remaining satin fabric by placing Stitch ‘n’ Tear underneath.
Enlarge Template D to correct size. Place on fold of Dressmakers’ Paper and cut out 2. Place both full-size Templates onto right side of satin fabric and draw around outer edges using water-soluble pen (or outline with pins), noting that Template is placed on the bias of the fabric.
Diagram 3 – Within these outlines on Lining Fabric and using the Anchor Alcazar Metallic as the top thread, work a series of flower motifs using free machining (see Image 3). These need to be approximately 3-4cm (1¼”–1¾”) across. Remove Stitch ‘n’ Tear.
Buttons
Following manufacturers’ instructions cut out the relevant-sized template from the button card and draw sufficient circles on remaining satin fabric. Using Stitch ‘n’ Tear as before, work smaller flower motifs in the centre of each circle, each measuring approximately 1.5-2cm across (1/2” – 3/4”). Remove Stitch ‘n’ Tear. Cut out the embroidered circles and cover the buttons following manufacturers’ instructions.
How to make up
Cut out Ties and with right sides together fold one piece in half down centre. Stitch down long side and then down the curved lower edge to the fold. Trim seam allowances and clip seams.
Turn to right side and press gently.
Make a small pleat in raw edge at top of Tie.
Matching raw edges pin top raw edge of Tie to raw side edge of Main Fabric between dots and baste in position. Work the other side to match.
With right sides together and raw edges even, position Lining fabric over Main fabric, enclosing Ties. (Hint: You may find it easier to pin the ties out of the way of any seam lines.)
Starting and ending at centre back and using Sylko sew all round outer edge of Wrap, leaving an 8-10cm opening. Trim and clip seams.
Turn to right side. Do not press.
Lay Wrap flat. Pin layers together through all thicknesses.
Quilting
Sew a button through each gathered point, working through all fabric layers. Remove pins.
Dry clean only. |