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materials required |
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Cushion Cover
7 x 50g balls of Coats Anchor Magic colour 1413
1 x 4.00 mm crochet hook
1 x 5g. skein of Coats Anchor Pearl Cotton colour 24 (pink)
(John Lewis stock code, 560:20113)
1 x 18 cm lightweight zip. (used here, pink YKK zip available from John Lewis, stock code, 572:41145)
2 metres 10 mm pink ribbon. (used here, ribbon from John Lewis, stock code, 566:91507)
1.5 metres beaded trim. (used here, trim from John Lewis, stock code, 568:36507)
1 embroidery sewing needle
Matching sewing thread
Cushion Pad
0.5 metre of matching cotton fabric. (Used here red cotton poplin from John Lewis, stock code, 502:31113)
Bag washable toy stuffing. (used here toy filling from John Lewis, stock code, 561:01305)
Matching sewing thread
John Lewis offers a mail order service |
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abbreviations |
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| CH |
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chain |
| DC |
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double crochet |
| SL ST |
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slip stitch |
| ST |
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stitch |
| STS |
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stitches |
| TC |
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turning chain(always counts as 1 stitch, i.e,1 dc) |
| TR |
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treble |
| YRH |
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yarn round hook | |
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tension |
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Worked over dc. on 4 mm. crochet hook 18 dc. and 22 rows = 10 cms. square. If the tension is not correct, work the tension square again using smaller or larger hook. It is important to obtain the correct tension before starting the work, or the worked item will not be the correct size.
Note on keeping edges straight
It can be difficult to keep the edges straight when doing crochet. The turning chain at the end of the row always counts as the 1st stitch of the following row, this means that the 1st stitch made on the following row will be worked into the 2nd stitch of that row. At the end of the row, a stitch must be worked into the last 'proper' stitch (i.e., dc., tr. etc.) and another stitch must be worked into the turning chain.
When working in this way it seems as if there is a gap at the beginning of the row and 'overcrowding' at the end of the row, however this evens out as subsequent rows are worked.
This patterm forms increases by disobeying this rule where shaping is needed, and working into the 1st stitch of the row thus forming an increase at one end of the row only.
These increase rows are always worked in pairs so that increases occur regularly throughout work. This is clearly written in the pattern. |
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instructions |
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Front (Worked from lower edge)
Using no 4 mm. crochet hook, make a foundation chain of 3 ch.
1st Row: 1 dc. in 3rd ch. from hook. 2 tc. (2sts)
2nd row: 2 dc. in 1st dc, 1dc. in last dc. (tc. of previous row) 2 tc. (4sts.)
3rd row: 2 dc. in 1st dc., 1dc. in next dc., 2 dc. in next dc.,
1dc. in last dc. (tc. of previous row) 2 tc. (7sts.)
4th row: 1 dc. in 1st dc., 1dc. in each dc. to last 2dc. 2 dc. in next dc., 1 dc. in last dc. (tc. of previous row) 2 tc. (= 2 increases across row)
5th row: As 4th row.
6th row: 1 dc. in 1st dc., 1 dc in each st. to end, 2 tc. (= 1 increase across row)
7th row: As 6th row.
Now there are 13 dc. across row, counting the 2 tc. as 1 dc.
Repeat rows 4 – 7, 8 more times, then rep rows 4, 5 and 6 once more. Work now measures 18 cms., and there are 66 dc. across row (counting tc. as 1 dc).
Now repeat rows 6 and 7, 5 more times. (76 dc)
Next row: 1 dc. in 2nd dc. of row, work in dc. across row. 2 tc.
Repeat this last row 7 more times, keeping the edges straight so that number of dc. stay the same. (76 dc., counting tc. as 1 dc.)
Next row: Working in 2nd and 3rd dc. of row, dec. over 2 sts., now work 1 dc. in each dc. of previous row, to last 3 dc. (tc. counts as 1 dc.), dec. over 2 sts., 1 dc. in last dc. (tc. of previous row) 2 tc. (74 dc.)
Next row: 1 dc. in 2nd dc. of row, work in dc. across row. 2 tc.
Repeat these last 2 rows once more. (72 dc.)
Divide For Top
Next row: Starting with 2nd dc. of previous row, dec. over 2 sts., now work 1 dc. in each of next 30 dc. of previous row, dec. over 2 sts., 1 dc in next dc., 2 tc. (34 dc.).
Leave remaining 36 dc., turn and work on this group of 34 sts. as follows;
Next row: 1 dc. in 2nd dc. of row, work in dc. across row. 2 tc.
Next row: Starting with 2nd dc. of previous row, dec. over 2 sts., now work 1 dc. in each dc. of previous row, to last 3 dc. (tc. counts as 1 dc.), dec. over 2 sts., 1 dc. in last dc. (tc. of previous row).2 tc.
Repeat these last 2 rows 3 more times, ending last repeat 3tc., instead of 2 tc. (26 sts.)**
Next row: Starting with 2nd dc. of previous row, dec. over 2 sts., now work 1 dc. in each dc. of previous row, to last 4 dc. (tc. counts as 1 dc.), dec. over 2 sts., miss 1 dc.1 dc. in last dc. (tc. of previous row.) 2 tc.
Repeat this last row 2 more times. (17 dc.)
Next row: Starting with 2nd dc. of previous row, dec. over 2 sts., then working into next 2 dc., dec. over 2 sts., now work 1 dc. in each dc. of previous row, to last 5 dc. (tc.counts as dc.), (dec. over 2 sts.) twice, dc. in last dc.( tc. of previous row). 3 tc.
Repeat this last row 1 more time. (9 sts.)
Next row: Starting with 2nd dc. of previous row, (dec. over 2 sts.) 4 times, 3 tc. (5 dc.)
Next row: Starting with 2nd dc. of previous row, (dec. over 2 sts.) twice. (3 dc.). Fasten off.
Rejoin yarn to 2nd half of work at centre of work, make 2 tc. in 1st dc., then work 2nd half of top the same as for first half, as given.
Now continue as follows:
Next row: miss 1st 2 dc. and working into 3rd and 4th dc. of previous row, dec. over 2 sts., then work 1 dc. in each dc. to last 3 dc. (tc. counts as 1 dc.), dec over 2 sts., 1 dc. in last dc. ( tc. of previous row).
Repeat this last row 3 times in all ending last repeat 3 tc. instead of 2 tc. (17 dc.).
Next row: Starting with 2nd dc. of previous row, dec. over 2 sts., then working into next 2 dc., dec. over 2 sts., now work 1 dc. in each dc. of previous row, to last 5 dc. (tc. counts as dc.), (dec. over 2 sts.) twice., dc. in last dc.( tc. of previous row.) 3 tc.
Repeat this last row 1 more time. (9 sts.).
Next row: Starting with 2nd dc. of previous row, (dec. over 2 sts.) 4 times, 3 tc. (5 dc).
Next row: Starting with 2nd dc. of previous row, (dec. over 2 sts.) twice. (3 dc.). Fasten off.
Work another piece to match.
Sew in all the ends to wrong side of work.
Pin out and press each piece. Follow ball band instructions for heat setting. |
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how to work the embroidery |
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Work a guideline of large tacking stitches around cushion approximately 5 cms. in from edge.
Working on front side only, and using photograph as a guide, use a crochet hook to thread ribbon in alternate long stitches and knots, around this line. Make sure that knots fall at upper and lower points and are matched each side of heart shape.
Hand sew ribbons on inside to secure.
Work daisies around the knots using double strand of Anchor Pearl Cotton and Lazy Daisy Stitch.
Remove tacking thread.
Using matching sewing thread, tack bead edging to inside edge of front piece. Make sure that the tape is not showing on front side and that it does not tighten the edge.
Make Cushion
Using crochet heart shape as a pattern, cut 2 pieces of toning colour cotton fabric. Leaving a 5 cms gap along the straight edge of side, sew the 2 pieces together 6mm in from cut edge.
Snip the curves and 'V's then neaten the raw edges with overlock, zig zag or oversewing.
Turn inside out, and stuff with washable wadding. Hand sew remaining 5 cms. gap.
Make up cushion cover
With wrong sides together, and working from the right side of the cushion cover, using Anchor magic and a wool sewing needle, carefully stab stitch the 2 pieces together, taking care not to entangle the beading but allowing it to hang free between the stitches.
Work all the way around cushion cover except for an 18 cms. gap along the straight part of the side.
Using matching sewing thread backstitch the zipper into this gap.
Open zip and insert cushion pad. Close zip. |
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